The kitchen backsplash was one of the hardest decisions in the kitchen renovation. Backsplash can make or break a kitchen in my opinion. You don’t want it to clash with other elements in the kitchen like the counter or flooring, and you don’t want to be too “matchy” either.
I knew I wanted to keep it neutral and light but didn’t want plain white subway tile either. I really loved Shea McGee’s kitchen backsplash which has texture but still looks clean. She shared it was from Cle Tile in a kitchen tour video.
Inspiration pic below (Shea’s Kitchen):
That color of that specific Cle tile wouldn’t go with our cabinets and counters so I searched for something similar and ended up with a white textured subway tile from Floor & Decor. The specific tile is Villa Artisan Frost Ceramic Tile 3″ x 12″ SKU 100500982.
What you’ll need:
- Tile
- Thin-set Mortar. I used this pre-mixed mortar
- Tile cutter. I used this one
- Multi-tool or Oscillating Tool with blade made for tile. There are a few options for cutting notches and non-straight cuts in the tile. But this is what worked for me.
- Spacers (optional). I used these 1/16″ spacers. Check your tile to see if there are built in spacers on the edge of the tile. Mine did not have them.
- Trowels. I picked up 2 cheap ones from the hardware store but these are similar.
- Tiler marker or dry erase marker
- Painter’s Tool or putty knife
- Screwdrivers
- Level
- Grout – I used the MAPEI Flexcolor CQ in the color White
- Grout Float
- Sponges, old rags or towels
- Bucket for water when grouting
- News papers, plastic, etc. to protect counters
Let’s get started!
Planning & Layout: Pick you layout and starting point. I went with half-brick pattern and started in the corner. I recommend starting in the corner (if you have one in your kitchen lay out) to make sure the tile on each wall lines up perfectly. If you’re using spacers, use them between the counter and tile. You should also figure out how many rows will fit based on the height of the tile including spacers. 6 rows of tile fit perfectly between the counter and the cabinets. Not sure if I got lucky or if the height of tile is made intentionally?? Either way I was happy to not have to make cuts on every tile of the top row!
Application: I applied the mortar to the back of each piece of tile because it gave me more flexibility to start and stop at any point. The thin set dries very fast so if you mortar the wall instead of the tile, make sure you’ll be laying the tile right away otherwise you’ll be scraping it off. That method created too much mess and waste for me.
Once you get a few tiles laid it goes pretty quick! Until you get to an outlet and need to cut.
Cutting: The tile cutter I used worked perfect for straight cuts, even on the textured tile. For cutting notches around outlets I used a multi-tool with a tile blade. Cutting takes some patience! Take your time and it will come out perfect!
Another spot you may have to put extra thought into is the gap for the stove if you have a slide in range. This was simple though, you just need a level and scrap piece of wood. First lay the wood on top of the counter and draw a line connecting both counters. Check to make sure it’s level. Then tack the wood just under the line so it supports the tile temporarily while it dries. I waited until the grout was set for about a week before removing the wood.
Paint (Optional): Before you tile the top row, you may want to paint the wall from the cabinet down a few inches in case there is a small gap between the top of the tile and upper cabinets. I did this to be sure it didn’t look unfinished.
Edges: It’s the little details that keep me up at night… like how I was going to finish the edges because the cabinets and counters do not extend to the end of the wall on either side! This is a common detail but I was still so stuck on how to finish this because there was no matching bullnose to this tile.
After lots of research I decided I wanted to keep it clean and simple and went with a straight pencil edge. I brought a single tile back to the store to match the edge as best I could. It ended up turning out perfect (in my opinion!)
Grout! Make sure you have a clean bucket of water and 2-3 sponges plus rags. I worked in approx.. 2′ sections by applying the grout, smearing it into the gaps as best as possible then wiping away excess. Ring out your sponge after 3-4 wipes of the tile.
Do not grout the bottom gap between the counter and tile! You’ll need a special caulk for this. I used the Mapei Keracaulk in “White”. It matches perfect to the grout. You need to let it set for 3 days before getting wet so be careful at the sink area after applying this. TIP: this was messy! you’ll need to work fast as the caulking doesn’t stop flowing out so have cardboard, paper towels and rags handy.
Here is the finished result! I’m so happy I decided to take on this challenge because I couldn’t be happier with the result and feel really proud every time I see it 🙂
Still needs finish trim 
- Tips!
- Take your time! I spent about 3-4 weeks from start to finish and am very happy with the result
- Don’t be afraid to mess up. If you mess up, just take the tile off, scrape the mortar and start over. It’s pretty forgiving
- Get the right tools it makes all the difference to get a professional end result
- Ask for tips from professionals. People who are experts at something like to give advice. I learned a lot just by asking questions. This goes for every project
- Do your research on the right products to use
- for example I didn’t know there was sanded and non-sanded grout. Use non-sanded for joints less than 1/8″ thick.
There will be a separate post on how to trim out the window. Since tile is adhered to the wall half way up the window creates some challenges. Again… the details that keep me up at night!
The whole reason I started a blog is because hitting road blocks while doing work yourself is frustrating when you can’t find the solutions easily. If just one person finds one of my posts helpful then I’m happy 🙂
Questions?? Leave a comment or send an email!